Free Bow Collar Tutorial from Marte of Compagnie M!

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Hello Fabricworms!

Today's guest blogger is Marte, the owner of Compagnie M. sewing patterns and all around creative gal. Enjoy!

Hi, I’m Marte and I adore special details in sewing patterns; that’s why I started my own pattern brand: Compagnie M. Whenever I make a design, I try to add my signature style. Pockets and collars are my favorite details to play with.

Today I’m sharing two things: first of all, I’ve written a tutorial on how to make a bow collar that fits on any dress pattern with a regular front neckline. You can find the tutorial and the free pattern pieces at the end of this blog post.

Secondly, I started designing a new dress pattern while taking pictures of the collar and the good news is I’m sharing it for free on my website! So hop over to Compagnie M. if you wish to sew this absolutely adorable dress. The free Judith dress pattern is available for girls from 1 – 10yo, includes a version with or without seam allowance, and is accompanied with detailed step-by-step photo instructions. Hooray!

For my Judith dress I got the opportunity to try the brand new Charley Harper fabric, Western birds in perch rose. I think you can officially state that I entered a pink stage and obviously my girls (I have twins) don’t mind at all. I did add a touch of mustard yellow. Just enough so the bow can attract attention.
**Western Birds will be released in April!**

But just when you think this is it, you discover that the back is rather special too. I had never tried an open back before but I love how it turned out. Nore didn’t want to put her cardigan on after the photo shoot. Can I blame her?

In combination with a pleated skirt, the Judith is the perfect party dress! The twirl proves that right? But did you know that my patterns are interchangeable? So you might as well add the gathered skirt from the Lotta dress or the (half) circular skirt from the Ileana dress. They all fit. Check my blog post for more mix & match options. They seem endless!

Now let's talk about the tutorial. If you like my bow collar, you can use the tutorial below on a dress, blouse, t-shirt or maybe even a sweater. Please be sure to share your creation with me by using the hashtag: #compagniembowcollar. I'd love to see what you've made!

Cut the pattern pieces as indicated on the pattern.

Fold the bow collar pattern piece in half (on the fold line) and place it on top of the bodice front. Match the center front lines. The upper corners (A on the drawing) match with the neckline.

Cut away the yellow part from the bow collar piece. This is the result.

Fold the collar in half on the fold line. Right sides together. Sew both side seams at 1cm (3/8 in) from the edge.

Turn right sides out, press and clip the corners.

Press the extra bow piece like bias tape.

Fold in half and topstitch both sides 2mm from the edge.

Place the bias tape in the middle of the neckline as shown below.

Pin the collar on top of it.

Baste stitch within the seam allowance to the keep the bow and bias tape in place.

Fold the tape around the collar to make a bow. Baste stitch the top of the tape again within the seam allowance.

Now finish the dress following the instructions of the pattern. When you’re ready, add a blind stitch to the lower corners of the bow to keep it in place.

I hope you like both my bow tutorial and the new Judith dress pattern. Enjoy sewing!

Have a wonderful week!


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